Anna Lee (Анна Щукина) (ana_lee) wrote,
Anna Lee (Анна Щукина)

Dior by Mark Shaw

Издательство Rizzoli опубликовало архивные работы американского портретиста Марка Шоу (Mark Shaw). Альбом "Dior Glamour" представляет собой коллекцию знаковых платьев Christian Dior 50-х и 60-х в объективе  фотографа. Марк Шоу проявил себя не только как fashion-фотограф, но и отличный репортер. В книгу вошли снимки с показов, примерок и репетиций. Среди моделей Софи Мальга – жена режиссера Анатолия Литвака, музы месье Кристиана Диора – Виктуар, Рене Бретон, Алла Ильчина и Кука.

Christian Dior in Paris Atelier, 1954

House of Dior-Gainsborough Girls, 1956

Sophie Malgat in Apartment of Christian Dior, 1953

Kouka in Beaded Dior-Paris, 1961

Christian Dior in Paris Atelier, 1954

Captured in the Grand Salon of his Paris Flagship is Monsieur Dior adjusting jewels on the model Victoire's neck in preparation for a couture show in 1954. She wear's Zaire dress from A/W Haute Couture Collection. When Christian Dior hired Victoire, he interjected a youthful zest to his choice of models. Armed with a sensual and sassy attitude, the 19-year-old Parisian was short and curvy, and within two seasons became Monsieur Dior’s new star. Sally Kirkland, LIFE magazine’s fashion director understood Victoire’s appeal immediately.“You’re great!” she exclaimed, and was the first to do a huge story on Dior’s new darling. Standing on a ladder, Mark Shaw took this picture and tried to encourage the designer to place his hand on Victoire’s famous bosom. “Being chaste, Monsieur Dior chose to touch my necklace instead,” she recalls.

House of Dior-Gainsborough Girls, 1956

Captured here on a rare moment in the studio are models wearing gowns and day dresses from DIor's S/S 1956 collection.

House of Dior-Model in Metallic Dress-Back, 1953

Captured here in the grand salon of Dior's Paris flagship in 1953 is a model tending to buyers. She is seen from the back posing in a Vivante Haute Couture dress. Her matching gloves are extended.

House of Dior-The First 13 Diors, 1953

Captured on the famed stairwell of Dior's Paris flagship.Thirteen was Monsieur Dior’s favorite number and being highly superstitious, it explained why there were thirteen models in his Cabine. Lined up on the staircase outside the Grand Salon before a highly anticipated trip to Japan, the roll call includes Vera, Renée, Alla, Marie-Thérèse, Dexter, Claire, Lucky, and France. By the bannister, Victoire stands next to Mauviette.

House of Dior-Alla with Illustrator, 1954

Captured here inside the Dior flagship in 1954 is star model Alla, decked out in Dior’s evening finery called Artamène. She is being sketched by Carl Erickson for American Vogue, best known as Eric. To give an accurate account of the Paris collections, in-house models were expected to pose, wearing the latest looks.

House of Dior Bride #1, 1953

Captured in the Dior's Paris flagship in 1953 is famed Dior model Victoire in Félicité dress, Autumn-Winter 1953 Haute Couture collection. She is seen attending to buyers from a UK department store.

Model in Home of Christian Dior, 1953

Shot in 1953 is a model inside the sumptuous home of Christian Dior. Shaw captured her in DIor's salon, decorated by Victor Grandpierre, the interior designer responsible for Dior’s flagship. This reception room was exquisitely arranged, flaunting a superior collection of Napoleon III trappings. The model wears an evening dress from the Autumn-Winter 1953 Vivante line.

Kouka in Beaded Dior-Paris, 1961

Captured here on the streets of Paris after dark is Argentine model Kouka wearing a beaded Ciel de Feu dress from Dior's 1961 A/W collection.

Models in Couture with Carousel, 1957

Seen here at the children's playground at the Bois de Boulogne are models in day time dresses by (L-R) by designers Dior, Laroche, Cardin, Lanvin-Castillo and Patou. Shaw shot this for LIFE in 1957.

Models in Couture on Miniature Train, 1957

Captured here on the miniature train at the Bois de Boulogne in 1957 are models in gowns by designers (L-R) are Lanvin-Castillo, Cardin, Dior, Laroche, Lanvin-Castillo, Cardin, Laroche and Patou.

Model in Apartments of Suzanne Luling, 1960

Seen here in the apartments of Suzanne Luling, Dior's right hand and elusive directrice- is model Christa Vogel wearing Théâtre de France dress, from Dior Spring-Summer 1960 Haute Couture collection.
These famed apartments were where are where the serious Dior business was conducted. Dior also hosted lavish after-parties there throughout the 1950's.

Dior in Apartment of Francine Weisweiller, 1960

Shaw captured this model in 1960 in the salon of the hotel particulier of style icon Francine Weisweiller. She is wearing a Dior day ensemble.

Sophie Malgat in Apartment of Christian Dior, 1953

Shot here in the Paris apartments of Chrtistian Dior in 1953 is model Sophie Malgat–the wife of the film directorAnatole ‘Tola’ Litvak–was one of the rare models who starred on the catwalk and had “cover girl” status in magazine editorial. Shaw photographed Malgat in the Jardin d’Hiver of Monsieur Dior’s hotel particulier on boulevard Jules Sandeau in Paris’s 16th arrondissement. She wears an evening dress, from Dior's Autumn-Winter 1953 Haute Couture collection, Vivante line.

Model in Dior Mesh Hat-Paris, 1960

Seen here in the Paris apartments of interior design legend Henri Samuel is model Christa Vogel in Dior Kabylie dress and metallic mesh hat from Dior's Spring-Summer collection, 1960. Shaw captured Vogel in the salon of Samuel's home, which was known for it's usage of 18th century furnishings.

House of Dior-Seated Model with Cane, 1954

Captured here is a model wearing Conspiration ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1954 Haute Couture collection. She is seated in the grand salon of Dior's flagship. This model was fired from the house of Dior soon after this photo was taken, for modeling too unconventionally.

House of Dior-Couture Show, 1954

Here Mark Shaw captures the action front and center During the A/W 1954 Haute Couture collection. Model Victoire is seen in "Amadis" evening ensemble.

House of Dior-Smoking Model in Grand Salon

Captured here in 1954 in the grand salon of Dior's Flagship is model Renee, who was one of Monsieur Dior's favorites. In his memoirs, Dior wrote, "Every dress she puts on seems to be a success,” Renée proportions were said to be so perfect that they were shop mannequin-like.

House of Dior-Models Under Wraps, 1953

Seen here in front of the Dior Flagship in 1953 are three models under wraps-illustrating the secret nature of Dior's latest creations. When Monsieur Dior’s models hit the streets, they were always covered up and hidden. This was to prevent new outfits from being copied; the designer’s obsessive and lingering fear after each collection. During that period, copyrighting and selling paper patterns became an important percentage of Dior’s couture business.

House of Dior-Autumn/Winter 1954

Seen here is a model wearing couture from Dior's controversial H Line in 1954. Christian Dior’s H-Line silhouette was a shock and a rupture from his New Look shape.It deliberately flattened the bosom to enhance a molded, elongated shape that certain Dior fans found unfeminine.

House of Dior-Models in Metallic Dresses, 1953

Seen here inside the grand salon at Dior's flagship in are two models in metallic day dresses from the Autumn-Winter Vivante Haute Couture line in 1953.

House of Dior- Autumn/Winter Couture, 1954

Seen here inside Dior's flagship in 1954 is a model in an H Line Suit from Dior's Autumn Winter collection. Seamstresses can be seen sitting on the stairwell behind her.

YSL for Dior - Model in Lola Gown with Mask, 1958

Captured here is a masked model in a 1958 Lola Haute Couture gown by YSL for Dior-this would have been St. Laurent's second collection for the house.

House of Dior-Kouka in Wedding Dress, 1961

Shaw captured famed Argentine model. Kouka modeling Marc Bohan’s wedding dress in Dior’s Grand Salon during a salon show. In her opinion, “the fashion house was temple-like” in its world, meaning good taste and general excellence.

Dior Fur Hat -Paris, 1954

Seen here is model Eugenie Mauffret modeling gown and fur hat from Dior's Autumn/Winter 1954 Haute Couture, H Line collection. Shaw captured her on the famed Dior stairwell inside 30 Avenue Montaigne.

House of Dior-Model with Buyers-Color, 1953

Captured inside Dior's flagship in 1953, fledgling designer John Moore is shown with his employer Mattie Talmack, the owner of the esteemed American couture house. Talmack, reputed for buying patterns from the best Parisian couture houses, explains the significance of Dior’s new flat look as viewed on the model Odile.

Lee Radziwill in Dior Coral Dress, 1960

Mark Shaw shot a major photo feature for LIFE magazine on style icon (and Jackie Kennedy's sister) Lee Radziwill in 1960. Radziwill can be seen here in the office of her London apartment. She is wearing a coral colored day dress by Dior.

Models in Beaded Dior Gowns- Paris, 1961

Shaw captured these models in night scape on the streets of Paris, wearing beaded gowns from Ondine and Ciel de feu, Autumn-Winter 1961 haute couture collection.

Jaqueline de Ribes At Home in Dior, 1959

Captured magnificently by Shaw, in the salon of her Paris hotel particulier, is style legend Jaqueline de Ribes in a peach silk Dior Ibis Dress from Haute Couture collection, S/S 1959.

House of Dior-Model with Buyers-B-W, 1953

Here Shaw captures the action during an after show buying opportunity in the Dior flagship. The model is wearing a Vivante haute couture dress from Dior's A/W 1953 collection.
Buyers had to pay a fee to attend Christian Dior’s in-demand shows as well as buy an annotated number of outfits. Due to the enormously high prices  – Dior was the most expensive couturier in Paris – every piece of clothing was studied to a maximum degree before being ordered.

House of Dior-Kouka with Gloves, 1959

Captured here in Dior's flagship in 1959 is Argentine model, Kouka wearing a Novia dress from Dior's S/S 1959 Haute Couture Collection. Within her first season at Dior, the Argentinean-born Kouka became a star. Initially used by Yves Saint Laurent for his premier collection  – “I was his muse,” she says – few could forget her dramatic appearance. First, there were her wide Latin eyes enhanced by her Soeurs Carita style bob, and then there was the Kouka catwalk performance that consisted of walking with thrust-out hips.

Dior Ruffeled Gown-Paris, 1960

Model/Actress Elsa Martinelli wearing a ruffeled gown by Christian Dior in the countryside outside of Paris

Christian Dior, 1954

A whimsical moment captured by Mark Shaw front and center at the Christian Dior couture show in Paris in 1954.

Models in Dior - Pont Alexandre lll

Captured here in 1953 at Paris' Pont Alexandre III are three models strolling the bridge's adjoining quay in Dior couture.

Captured here in 1953 at Paris' Pont Alexandre III are three models strolling the the bridge's adjoining quay in Dior couture


Mark Shaw: LIFE-show

Tags: 1950s, 1960s, designers, haute couture, photographers, vintage fashion
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