Anna Lee (Анна Щукина) (ana_lee) wrote,
Anna Lee (Анна Щукина)
ana_lee

Диктаторы стиля: Carine Roitfeld

Возглавляя французский Vogue, Карин Ройтфельд является иконой стиля прежде всего для жительниц Парижа, чьи улицы продолжают ее вдохновлять. Много черпая из городской культуры, она никогда не опускается до вульгарности - талант, принесший ей славу одного из самых тактичных и интеллигентных представителей профессии.


Карин в 18 лет



 










1954
Карин Ройтфельд родилась в Париже. Ее отец Жак Ройтфельд (Jacques Roitfeld), выходец из семьи русских эмигрантов, был кинопродюсером. Девочка боготворила его, в то время как мать - типичная француженка, по выражению самой Карин, - казалась ей человеком более простым и приземленным. В одном из интервью Карин призналась, что мама познакомила ее с журналами мод еще до того, как она научилась читать.

1970 Шестнадцатилетнюю Карин замечает на улице фотограф и предлагает ей поработать моделью. Девушка охотно соглашается, но звездной карьеры, о которой мечталось, не получается - к сотрудничеству с Карин стремятся, в основном, заурядные издания. Карин решает отодвинуть на второй план работу модели и стать стилистом.



1972
Статьи Ройтфельд появляются во французском ELLE. Вскоре Карин начинает в нем регулярную колонку консультанта по стилю.

1981 У Карин и ее близкого друга Кристиана Рестуана (Christian Restoin) рождается первенец: дочь Юлия (Julia Restoin-Roitfeld). Спустя еще три года - сын Владимир. Несколько лет Карин занимается воспитанием детей.


Carine with Julia


Vladimir Restoin with Lily Donaldson

1986 Ройтфельд знакомится с фотографом Марио Тестино (Mario Testino), снимавшим ее дочь в качестве маленькой модели для итальянского Vogue Bambini. Образуется тандем, дружеский и профессиональный, ставший впоследствии одним из самых успешных в мире моды.




Carine with Mario Testino

1986-1995
Дуэт Ройтфельд и Тестино блестяще проявляет себя в рекламной съемке: их постеры, изготовленные для Gucci, Missoni, Versace, YSL и Calvin Klein, публикуются в американском и французском Vogue. На них обращают пристальное внимание ведущие дизайнеры, а Том Форд, работавший в то время с Gucci, предлагает им контракт. Сначала Ройтфельд отвергает это предложение - марка, представляемая Фордом, явно находится за пределами fashion-авангарда. Но харизматичный Форд добивается встречи и уговаривает Карин поработать вместе.

1995 Провокационная рекламная кампания, которую Форд запускает с Марио Тестино и Карин Ройтфельд, приносит проекту очень громкую известность. Для марки, которая, по мнению кутюрье, нуждается в притоке свежей крови, они вместе с Ройтфельд изобретают подчеркнуто чувственные образы. Созданные ими фотографии вызывают неоднозначные реакции: некоторые сюжеты находят едва ли не порнографическими. Влияние Ройтфельд на Форда в этот период очень велико - Карин не просто консультант Тома, но большой его друг и муза. 

1999 Ройтфельд работает внештатным редактором моды во французском Vogue и курирует линию мужской одежды в Yves Saint Laurent, приобретенном Gucci Group. Начинающий дизайнер Эди Слиман (Hedi Slimane) показывает Карин свою дебютную коллекцию и, благодаря ее поддержке, добивается признания и успеха.  

2001 Глава Condé Nast Джонатан Ньюхаус (Jonathan Newhouse) предлагает Ройтфельд возглавить французский Vogue, несмотря на то, что многим выбор вдохновительницы скандальной фотосессии кажется слишком рискованным предприятием. Карин привносит в журнал свежую энергию, игнорируя критику в свой адрес за излишнюю дерзость и непочтительность к традициям: ей нравятся фотосюжеты с сексуальным подтекстом, и она отдает явное предпочтение новому поколению дизайнеров, таких как Николя Гескьер (Nicolas Ghesquiere), Эди Слиман и Фиб Фило (Phoebe Philo). Кристиан Рестуан, с которым они по-прежнему живут в гражданском браке, сворачивает свой бизнес, чтобы помогать ей.

2005 Прибыль от рекламы в Vogue, возглавляемом Карин Ройтфельд, увеличивается на 60% - наилучший показатель за двадцать лет.

2006 Ройтфельд принимает руководство еще одним изданием -  мужским Vogue Homme International. Ее задача - восстановить высокую репутацию журнала, переживавшего нелучшие времена. По мнению Ройтфельд, этого можно добиться, сделав издание более интеллектуальным, насытив его серьезными статьями и эссе.

2007 Ройтфельд помещает на обложку Vogue модель-трансвестита  Андре J (André J), сфотографированного Брюсом Вебером. Образ получается на грани фола: бородатый выходец из Африки одет в женское платье и пальто, на его руках украшения, на ногах - изящные ботинки на каблуках.

2008 Карин Ройтфельд и Марио Тестино организуют фотосессию с участием топ-модели Ракель Циммерман, символизирующую иронию над активистами организации по защите прав животных PETA: на снимках манекенщица в шубке демонстрирует неприличный жест. В этом же году Карин Ройтфельд включают в список 100 самых влиятельных людей мира по версии авторитетного журнала Time.

P.S. «Я люблю сочетание маскулинного с женственным - это  очень по-французски, очень секси», - говорит Карин Ройтфельд, которую многие считают единственной вероятной соперницей могущественной Анны Винтур. Их отношения не безоблачны. Обе любят меха и не любят сумки, у обеих дочери стали моделями... хотя, возможно, это просто совпадение.

Ольга Борисова (vogue.ru)

Can We Please Get Some Carine Roitfeld Up in 4 Times Square?

We’ll go ahead and say it: We’re absolutely in love with French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld. And not in the strangely fascinated way in which we proclaim ironic “love” for her American Vogue counterpart, Anna Wintour. No, what we feel for Roitfeld is pure, unjaded, dewdrop-sincere love.

Why the unbridled affection? Maybe it’s our usual Monday vulnerability, but our feelings are no doubt shaped by Roitfeld’s frank words on the fashion industry:

• “They have to sell bags, bags, bags, bags, bags, bags. I hate handbags.”

[Translation: I don’t give a **** about about Marc Jacobs’ quilted Stella bag.]

• “Maybe if you write it, they send me some [pants]. You never know. My size is small.”

[Translation: I’m adorably shameless.]

• “Botox? No. I don’t like Botox. It makes a very strange forehead.”

[Translation: I fear Nicole Kidman.]

• “Every day you have to think you are a soldier. It’s true. Always have to fight. I’m fighting to keep a level to the magazine.”

[Translation: Reese Witherspoon does not belong on my cover.]

• On why she doesn’t wear fur: “Because it has a smell.”

[Translation: It’s not about PETA.]

• On being shy: “I keep my hair down as my protection. With a drink it is better. I am very fun after one glass of vodka. I am more beautiful, too.”

[Translation: I’m just a normal drunk!]

• And, on Anna Wintour: “She taught me a lot. Maybe she think I go up too much, I don’t know… I want good relations with her. But…”

[Translation: I’m just as afraid of her as you are.]

So to sum-up , Carine Roitfeld's favourite perfume is 'Opium' for men by YSL.She doesn't like to wear a lot of jewels ('it's more sensual' she says) .She likes her underwear to be simple (no lace or thongs.Picture 2).She likes to wear a short dress over a long t-shirt ( as seen on the third picture).She likes to wear fur during summer.She prefers to carry small bags and wear tight sheer clothes and short dresses/skirts to show her legs with high heels on (that she hydrates with 'Opium' body cream), and trench coats, she never wears trousers .Egon Schiele is her favourite painter .For the night , she likes her clothes black , long, see-through,and in 'rags' (as in , a bit torn. Last picture).

La Vie Parasienne – She’s impossibly chic and always in vogue: who better to be a stylemaker?

What to wear? Or rather what not to wear? Now that is the real question. “The truly chic woman never wears black before noon,” advised Genevieve Antoine-Dariaux in the 1964 fashion etiquette book Elegance. Yet Carine Roitfield – style icon, one-time muse for Gucci’s Tom Ford and current editor in chief of Paris Vogue – takes no notice of such rules. It is early morning and she is dressed in her signature all black: a narrow Balenciaga skirt, a black cashmere sweater, a paria of Helmut Lang thigh high boots and black Chanel bag with gilt chain. “The only thing that is not classic is my leopard print Roberto Cavalli jacket,” she says with a smile, “because I always like to give my classics that ‘wicked’ touch.” While each season may bring about new colours, must have shoe shapes and updated silhouettes, the truly stylish seem to have long worked out their look, rendered it classics and stuck to it. Think of Coco Chanel and her many strings of pearls, Audrey Hepburn in the little black dress, Anna Wintour in those perennial black sunglasses and Roitfield, always in black. (Who really believed another colour could ever be as fashionable?)

But what is it about their looks that is highly noticed, extremely coveted and forever copied? In the case of Roitfield, it is obvious; her poker straight hair that swings across her face; her heavily kohled eyes and her unique sense of style. Her looks have been repeatedly referenced on the runways, including Gucci, Versace and Yves Saint Laurent, yet Roitfield will tell you that her style is nothing to celebrate. “I am actually quite boring,” she quips. “Each season I get a new black skirt, but it is just the same as the black skirt I bought last year! It’s a basic knee length skirt from Balenciaga, and each season I buy the exact same one.” (With such a devoted customer as Roitfield, it is no wonder Nicolas Ghesquiere has re-named it the “Carine skirt”.)

The key to Roitfield's great sense of style is simple: everything fits her body to perfection. “It is my biggest fantasy to have everything fit perfectly,” she muses. “In fact I give everything an alteration. I have made my jeans shorter, all my skirts the right length and anything else that doesn’t fit – I fix.” While she has designer favourites, she isn’t afraid to take the plunge with more obscure names (she famously wore 70’s designer Loris Azzaro to a glamourous Vogue party bringing it back to the fore and is currently championing Riccardo Tisci), creating iconic fashion statements along the way. “I always wear something a bit strong and a bit rock n roll – even if it is just one little piece.”

She does however have some definite fashion don’ts. Pearls are not worn (“ too bourgeois”), a classic trench coat is shunned for a more “wicked” military version by Comme des Garcons and denim jeans are reserved for holidays (“worn with flats, never heels”). “I wear jeans and flats and I feel like I am on holiday. For me wearing skirts and high heels is only a costume for work.” Proof of this was the skinny Tsubi jeans, a grey cashmere top and open toed flats she was spotted during her most recent trip to Sydney. By night, she slipped into a little Yves Saint Laurent black cocktail dress: “I am wearing lots of little black dresses because it is very, very chic. For this season, I found a beautiful one from the cruise collection of YSL. Its black muslin, tight around the waist, with three quarter sleeves. It’s a stupid little dress, but its perfect.”

Her other classic pieces include a pinstripe Armani suit worn in Le Smoking style ( when in Yves Saint Laurent mood she’ll wear a transparent top underneath), and her classic Chanel handbag: “For me, Chanel was a bit decadent in her time. There is something always a bit wicked in the Chanel bag.” So which style icon does this style icon admire? “I love the looks of Jean Shrimpton,” she says. “I love the 70’s. That was my period. Jean Shrimpton is everything I want to be.” Hence her outfit today, re-interpreted from a David Bailey photograph of Jean Shrimpton taken in the 70’s, prominently displayed in a book on her desk. “And I want to tell you one more thing,” she says. “I absolutely love lingerie! I love it when you can see it under your blouse, a beautiful black bra sticking out from a white transparent shirt. It is very chic and of the moment.” As long as Roitfield is reinventing the rules, who would argue with that? 

 



 


Команда Vogue Paris









 





 

 

 
CARINE ET JULIA ROITFEILD

 


Юлия Рестуан-Ройтфельд/ Julia Restoin-Roitfeld

For this pretty Parisian, great style is in the genes—and the jeans. By Meredith Fisher
http://www.refinery29.com/editorial/img/juliarestoinroitfeld_open3.jpg

 When it comes to fashion pedigrees, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld couldn't have it better. As the daughter of French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld and Christian Restoin, the former owner of Equipment, the 26-year-old New Yorker was literally born into the industry. But parents aside, this Parsons grad has been cultivating a daring personal style all her own. While a design stint at Baron & Baron might have honed her visual skills behind the scenes, her recent role as the face of Tom Ford's Black Orchid perfume ads brought her refined rock-chic image to a more public place. The budding designer even masterminded the invitations for Peter Som's Spring 2008 show.

Most recently, Julia served as the inaugural campaign face for the new denim line Restoration of the Monarchy, and accepted a new position at the iconic Manhattan-based branding firm Laird + Partners. And while she may share her mom's passion for all things Alaia, she tells Refinery29 that she won't be following in her footsteps any time soon.

You definitely like to mix up your wardrobe between high-end and everyday denim. What's the one thing in your closet that's a constant?
Latex pants? Ha ha! No, I don't know. I do have a few favorite pieces but my style can't be summed up in one piece. It's more about the right mix between girly and rock.

What designer do you gravitate toward?
Azzedine Alaia because he embraces a woman's curves.

http://www.refinery29.com/editorial/img/juliarestoinroitfeld_restor.jpg

When did it hit you that your family was much more creative than most? Did you feel a sense of destiny for yourself?
I realized it pretty young. I always knew I wanted to do something artistic, not specifically in fashion though. But cats don't raise dogs!

We're jealous just thinking about all the great pointers you must get from your mom…What's the best style advice she's ever given you?
She told me not to try too hard or follow the trends too much—because they change too fast.

Is there anything in your mom's closet you can't steal?
All her shoes! She is a 37.5 and I am a 38.5 almost 39.

What item of clothing will you pass down to your kids?
All of the vintage dresses I wore as a child. I still have them in storage at my parents' house in Paris.

http://www.refinery29.com/editorial/img/juliarestoinroitfeld2_resto.jpg

You recently became the face for the new denim line, Restoration of the Monarchy. Given the world domination of denim these days, why did you find this line special?
[I loved that] it was a totally different way to wear jeans. So many jeans cut today feel more tomboyish, but the Restoration of the Monarchy jeans are much more feminine.

How many pairs of jeans do you own?
Not so many, maybe three?

Could you see yourself ever extending your design talents to clothes?
I love designing, so whatever it is, I'd be happy to do it—from shoes, to bags, to make-up packaging…even jewelry!






Tom Ford's perfume "Black Orchid", model Julia Restoin-Roitfeld


  
 

 













 


Модель в образе Carine Roitfeld by Diego Uchitel — BlackBook December 07

Апартаменты Карин Ройтфельд и Кристина Рестуана в Париже



 

 



 


 

La estilista tribute for Carine

 

 

 

 


 

     



Vogue Paris September 2008
Editorial: «Hors la Loi»
Photographers : Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott
Fashion Editor : Carine Roitfeld
Model : Anna Selezneva

 

 


 


 



VogueFR June/July2005
Models: Solanfe Wilvert, Isabeli Fontana, Jeisia Chimiazzo, Raica Oliveira, Marcelle Bittar, etc.
Style: Carine Roitfeld
Photographer: Mario Testino


 

 

 
Vogue Paris, Mai 2006 - Viva Italia
Ivre de Rome
photo : Mario Testino
style : Carine Roitfeld
models : Eva Herzigova & Mariacarla


 
 

 

 

 


 


Vogue Paris, Mai 2004
Ode Haute Couture
photo : Inez & Vinoodh
style : Carine Roitfeld
model : Gemma

 


 

 

 




Baby Kate
2003 May
ph by Mario Testino
styled by Carine Roitfeld

 

 

Vogue Paris, Fevrier 2001
Noir Blanc
photo : Mario Testino
style : Carine Roitfeld
models : Kate Moss and Delfine Bafort

 

 

 

 

 

 

 





Vogue Paris, Dec-Jan 2005
Ultimate Kate
photo : Craig McDean
style : Carine Roitfeld
model : Kate Moss

 

 

 

 

Vogue Paris, Fev. 2005
Corps & Lames
photo : Mario Testino
style : Carine Roitfeld
model : Gemma Ward



 

 



Sweet Black Angel
Photographer:  Mario Testino, styling Carine Roitfeld
model : Lyia

 

 

 




Vogue Paris, October 2008
Afrodisiaque
Photographer: Mario Testino
Fashion Editor: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Lakshmi Menon,  Yasmin Warsame
-
 

 

 
 


Vogue Paris, Sept.2003
Le grand jeu
photo : Mario Testino
style : Carine Roitfeld
model : Carolyn Murphy and male model

 

 

 

 

 

Vogue Paris, Nov.2005
Paparazzi
photo : Patrick Demarchelier
style : Carine Roitfeld
model : Mariacarla Boscono

 

 



 

 

 

Sofia
Photographer: Mario Testino, styling by Carine Roitfeld








Sofia
by Craig McDean, styling by Carine Roitfeld


 


Vogue Paris, 2001dec-2002jan
Melting Tops
Ph:Mario Testino
Stylist:Carine Roitfeld
Models:Maja Latinovic, Jacquetta Wheeler, Liya Kebede, Fanni Bostrom



 



 

 

 

 

Vogue Paris August 2005
More About Demi
ph by Mario Testino
styled by Carine Roitfeld


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



EDITORIAL: Tango des Passions
MAGAZINE: Vogue Paris February 2006
MODEL: Mariacarla Boscono, Patricia Schmid, Milagros Schmoll, Marta Berzkalna...
PHOTOGRAPHER: Mario Testino
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Source of photos: Fashionspot

Ссылки:

The Anti-Anna - By Amy Larocca

If looks could kill - By Sabine Durrant

Carine Roitfeld By Hedi Slimane

'We're French! We smoke, we show flesh, we have a lot of freedom ... ' - by Murray Healy
Tags: editorials, style icons
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