От создателя поэтических фотоснимков до убедительного рассказчика - за более чем полвека Джерри Шацберг (Jerry Schatzberg ) преуспел и в фотографии и в кино: его работы в 60-х публиковали все крупные журналы, а фильмы удостаивались самых почетных кинопремий.
“I fell in love with every woman I photographed. In the street, they pose naturally like models. No need to put them in the studio. I love to watch their beauty, their natural way of dressing, their humanity, their humor.”
Monique Le Fevre and Unidentified Man, New York, 1958
Betsy Pickering on Wall Street, 1958
Joanna McCormick and Colin Fox, New York 1958
Anne St. Marie and Bob Smith, Fulton Fish Market, New York, 1958
Anne St. Marie and Bob Smith, TWA Terminal, New York, 1959
Anne St. Marie and Fabian Malloy, New York, 1958
Anne St. Marie, New York 1958
Carmen Dell Orefice , New York 1959
Carmen Dell Orefice , New York 1958
Idlewild Airport, New York, 1957
Inge Marie, New York, 1963
Isabella Albonico, New York 1959
Isabella and Anne St. Marie, Gramercy Park, New York, 1959
The Man from U.N.C.L.E., Agneta Freiberg, Katherine Carpenter, Robert Vaughn, David McCallum, New York, 1965
The Man From U.N.C.L.E., Katherine Carpenter, Robert Vaughn, David McCallum, New York, 1965
Peggy Moffitt, Central Park, New York, 1967
Rose Marie Le Clerc, New York, 1958
Behind the scenes at YSL’s first show
It’s Paris 1962, Yves Saint Laurent has just started his own business, only five years after taking the reins from Christian Dior at age 21. It’s easy to identify this as the last great period of haute couture, spurring the subsequent rise of prêt-a-porte. It’s a time idolized in fashion, when clients and press were a limited society and before the advent of modern celebrity. And for many, it was a time when the entire history of fashion was only just reaching its modern form.
The evolution of fashion had many moments of crystallization during the mid-20th Century. However, there’s no single garment or collection that speaks for all of fashion. But for Paris in the early ’60s, these breakthroughs were ongoing and symbolic with nearly any branded good having a traceable relationship to this very period.
Esquire Magazine sent Jerry Schatzberg to shoot the fashion collections in Paris in 1962. By then, he was looking beyond the traditional form of fashion photography, where editors secured garments and then sent them to studios for late night photo sessions. Instead, Schatzberg pioneered street photography, capturing the so-called decisive moments. In the midst of the mundane and the regular, Schatzberg wanted to focus on an undeniable sensation of something in the air—the prospect of omnipresent beauty. In the days of film photography, Schatzberg was spinning conventions, making the guests and atmosphere his unsuspecting subjects while shifting fashion into the subtext. But he also tried to document the traditional methods, formally photographing Norma Parkinson and Helmut Newton as they worked.
Growing up in Manhattan, Schatzberg had simply wanted to escape the family business (ironically selling camera equipment). So he’d started assisting photographers like Bill Helburn before going on to shoot for Vogue, McCalls, Town and Country, and the like. Later, he went on to run legendary nightclubs in New York like Ondine and Salvation.
Juliana Cairone, stylist and owner of Rare Vintage in Manhattan, deals regularly with original garments by Saint Laurent, Dior, and Marc Bohan. She explains some of the fascination: “Fashion is about dreaming, I don’t think fashion exists without dreams and ideas. Otherwise we would all wear a uniform and there would be no interest. Jerry’s images, they are of such a different world. They are so beautiful, I can’t imagine any woman who would not want to try to look like that—get a bit of that feeling.”
Schatzberg mixed fashion and street photography in a way that had not previously been seen. And in this series, it’s simply a relevant perspective during a significant time. Some might say that film photography, in contrast to digital image capture, required money, technique and attention to every frame. Others would say perspective, time and technique sometimes just meet by coincidence, creating art. Regardless, Schatzberg’s images from Paris 1962 are probably best left to the dreamers.
Models taking break between fashion shows, Paris 1962
Jean Newington, YSL and Dior fashion shows, Paris 1962
Norman Parkinson backstage during fashion show, Paris 1962
Bill Helburn, Elsa Martinell
Фэй Данауэй украсила официальный постер Канн 2011
Фотография Фэй Данауэй была сделана в 1970-м году . Организаторы заявили, что это фото являет собой "образец утонченности и неподвластной времени элегантности, воплощение кинематографической мечты, которую стремится поддерживать Каннский кинофестиваль.
Faye Dunaway, 1967
Catherine Deneuve, New York, 1965
Jane Holzer, Terence Donovan, David Bailey
Jimi Hendrix, Mitch Mitchell, Noel Redding
Central Park, NY November 1964 - Singer Paul Anka riding a bicycle in Central Park with model in a floral print dress
Francis Ford Coppola
Lady Antonia Fraser
John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison, Ringo Starr
Edward VIII The Duke of Windsor
Party, Manhattan, 1954
Jerry Schatzberg’s 1966 portrait of the Rolling Stones; from left, Brian Jones, Keith Richards, Mick Jagger, Charlie Watts and Bill Wyman (seated).
An interview with Jerry Schatzberg
The Cinematic Portraits of Jerry Schatzberg